India's Wild Side: My Journey to Iconic & Hidden Wildlife Havens
- Subhashish Chatterjee
- 3 days ago
- 19 min read
A wildlife photographer's guide to India's wild side. Discover iconic tiger reserves and hidden wildlife havens. Experience the last lions and grand bird migration.
The chill stung my eyes as our canter bounced along Ranthambore’s misty trails. While the crowd chased tiger sightings, I found myself drawn to a solitary Sambhar Deer.
The deer stood in stillness, turned its head toward the commotion, and seemed to feel safe with the tigers kept at a distance. Surrounded by vehicles, the deer enjoyed a rare slice of peace right beside the trail.

That moment reminded me of what I always pursued as a landscape photographer: the best stories appeared when I stepped aside and let nature shape the frame. This ethos guided my wildlife journey, prompting me to seek out serene, off-the-beaten-path locations for genuine encounters.
This post is a reflection on the wild journeys I have taken across India, moments shaped not by spectacle but by quiet discoveries and the sense of wonder they inspire.
The Legendary Big Cat Territories
In 1972, India’s wild tiger population had dropped to just 4.5% of its original range, sounding an urgent alarm across the country. This crisis sparked the launch of Project Tiger. Over fifty years later, Project Tiger stands as a global conservation success story.
According to the All India Tiger Estimation 2022, India’s tiger population has increased by more than 50%, reaching 3,682 tigers, which accounts for almost 75% of the world’s remaining wild tigers.

The journey began in nine reserves across 18,278 square kilometres. Today, India protects its great cats in 58 tiger reserves spread over 84,488 square kilometres, now covering more than 2.5% of the country’s total land, a testament to relentless conservation and the enduring power of wild landscapes.
Ranthambore National Park: Iconic Tigers and Rich Biodiversity in Rajasthan
Ranthambore National Park stands among India’s largest and renowned tiger reserves, currently home to about 80 tigers according to recent estimates. The ancient Ranthambore Fort rises from the heart of the park, surrounded by dense forests that extend for over 1,300 square kilometres.

Two rivers, the Banas to the north and the Chambal to the south, form natural boundaries for Ranthambore National Park.
The southern stretch of the reserve includes the National Chambal Gharial Sanctuary at Palighat, a dedicated refuge for the endemic Indian Gharial. Located about 70 KM from the park’s tiger core zone, this riverside sanctuary is often overlooked by tourists in a hurry.

But Ranthambore is much more than a haven for big cats. Its landscape supports over 300 tree species and harbours upwards of 270 bird species, making it a hotspot for biodiversity far beyond tigers.
On a cold winter morning safari, a sloth bear emerged near the iconic park arch, a rare sight, as our guide noted that spotting a bear in Ranthambore is often harder than sighting a tiger.

Bandhavgarh National Park: India’s Tiger-Dense Forest and Biodiversity Haven
Bandhavgarh National Park boasts one of the highest tiger densities in India, with recent estimates suggesting around 80 to 100 tigers roam its forests.
Local guides proudly claim that if you miss spotting a tiger here, you might struggle to see one anywhere else in the world.

Dense Sal and bamboo forests dominate Bandhavgarh's landscape, creating a lush, vibrant habitat that promotes rich biodiversity. During summer safaris, I captured many of my early wildlife photographs in these vibrant surroundings.

Beyond its thriving flora and fauna, the park is steeped in history with ancient caves and majestic mountains. The name “Bandhavgarh” originates from the Hindu epic Ramayana lore, where Lord Ram is said to have gifted the fort to his brother Lakshman to watch over Lanka.

The park’s wetlands, both natural and man-made, attract over 300 bird species, making Bandhavgarh a hotspot for avian diversity alongside its famed tiger population.
If you want to experience Bandhavgarh through my own lens and stories, dive into my detailed exploration of Bandhavgarh’s enchanting wilderness and discover the magic that keeps calling me back. |

Pench National Park: The Jungle Book’s Forest and Rich Wildlife
India-born British author Rudyard Kipling’s iconic novel The Jungle Book needs no introduction. The forests of Pench National Park inspired Kipling to create the story of Mowgli.
The park’s landscape features grey-barked trees, many waterbodies, and the meandering Pench River, giving it the appearance of a nature-designed film set.

This landscape complemented the wildlife sightings during my 2024 and 2025 safaris. Pench National Park is home to an estimated 70 to 75 tigers, making it a vital part of India’s tiger conservation landscape.
I spotted a tiger cub resting on the lakeside, surrounded by ruffled brown leaves, fallen logs, and mint-green grass. The scene resembled a moment from a nature film.

A peacock posed on a leafless tree trunk, offering another picture-perfect shot for my camera. Pench National Park is home to over 340 recorded bird species, making it a premier destination for birdwatchers and nature lovers alike.

One warm summer morning, we watched a jackal strolling along the golden-red gravel trail. These adaptable canines thrive in Pench’s dry deciduous forests, often hunting alone or in pairs. Their cautious movement and keen senses make spotting them a rare and special moment in the wild.

A Sambhar deer peeked at us from behind a thick, grey-skinned crocodile-barked tree, evoking nostalgic memories of my first wildlife sighting at Ranthambore National Park.
To explore every corner of Pench and get insider tips on safaris, accommodation, and wildlife, don’t miss my complete Pench National Park guide, packed with all you need to know for an unforgettable adventure. |

Unexpected Encounters: When the Wild Surprises You
Beyond the well-trodden trails and famed tiger habitats lie hidden pockets of wilderness where nature reveals its most captivating secrets. These unexpected encounters with elusive wildlife challenge expectations, awaken the senses, and tell stories of survival and coexistence that few get to witness.
Journey into these lesser-known wild realms where every shadow and silent rustle holds the promise of a remarkable discovery.
Jawai, Rajasthan: Capturing Leopards Amid Granite Giants
Imagine a village in the arid lands of Rajasthan, where summers blaze like a furnace. Nights are spent outside on open verandas. The blackness of night broke as golden eyes shone bright. Behind the pale streetlight, the beige and black rosetted form of a leopard appeared. The predator senses nearby human presence, stalks among them, and then vanishes into the dark.

The predator senses nearby human presence, stalks among them, and then vanishes into the dark. On another night, an hour or two before twilight, a villager steps from his home and spots a leopard unconscious in slumber. The villager slunk away, avoiding a sound.
This isn’t fiction; it is the extraordinary shared understanding between humans and wildlife in Jawai, a region in the southern tip of Rajasthan’s Pali district. For over 70 years, locals of Jawai cohabitated with leopards.
Another reason for the thriving leopard population here lies in Jawai’s granite rock mountains. These ancient formations, shaped over millions of years, house caves, crevices, and crags that serve as shelters, locking in cool air and protecting against harsh weather. These natural dens also act as vantage points for leopards to watch prey and defend their territory.

The landscape and the unique human-wildlife story compelled me to Jawai for my foray into Indian wildlife photography.
In one striking moment, I watched a double-stacked container train crawl along the railway. It appeared minuscule against the vast granite mountains rising high above. These ancient mountains hold countless untold stories within their crevices, shaping life for leopards and locals alike.

My dawn encounter came with the sight of Neelam, the acclaimed female leopard of Jawai, perched on a giant, withered rock. I used my Nikon Z7 to freeze this moment, creating my first professional wildlife frame.

Gir National Park, Gujarat: Last Abode of Asiatic Lions
India is the only Asian country that is home to wild lions. The dry deciduous forests of Gir in Gujarat witnessed a significant 32% increase in the Asiatic lion population, growing from 674 in 2020 to 891 in 2025.
This remarkable conservation success counters the worrying decline that once pushed these lions to the brink of extinction after India’s independence.

These lions are slightly smaller than their African counterparts, with distinctive features such as bushier tufts on their elbows and pronounced belly folds.

Beyond the lions, Gir National Park showcases incredible biodiversity, sheltering over 40 mammal species, including leopards, sloth bears, and striped hyenas.
The park is also home to notable herbivores like chital, sambar, nilgai, and blackbucks, while its skies host more than 300 bird species.

One of the guides in Gir shared that if it weren’t for the lions, the park would have become predominantly a bird sanctuary. Gir supports a healthy leopard population, though these elusive cats remain difficult to spot due to the dominant presence of lions.
For an in-depth look at Gir National Park’s fascinating history, diverse wildlife, safari tips, and conservation triumphs, be sure to explore my definitive Gir National Park guide. This stands as the premier resource to ignite and guide your adventure in India’s noble lion kingdom. |

Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh: The Land of Indian Giant Squirrels
Satpura National Park tells a strong community-driven conservation story. This area once had many villages. The locals gave up their century-old ancestral lands to support wildlife preservation.
Established in 2000, Satpura Tiger Reserve combined three forests: Satpura, Bori, and Pachmari wildlife sanctuaries, covering 2,133 square kilometres. Satpura National Park is a significant component of this reserve. Today, it has a healthy population of 75 tigers.

My December 2024 visit, however, focused on the Indian Giant Squirrel. Also called the Malabar Giant Squirrel, it is three times larger than the common squirrel.
Its coat has rich wine-red fur on the back and creamy beige on the belly. The beige fur with a hint of cherry red on its face and tail creates a striking but peaceful sight.

Satpura’s tall trees provide an ideal home for these squirrels. Their nests sit high above, in trees as tall as the fourth floor of a city building.

The Indian Giant Squirrel is the mascot of Satpura Tiger Reserve. It appears as an intricate wooden carving on the entrance arch. Despite this, many tourists overlook this pleasing and endangered species.
A safari driver once told me that visitors often dismiss the squirrel, thinking they frequently see them near homes.

Satpura is unique among tiger reserves for requiring a river crossing before starting the jeep safari. The river and colder winter temperatures add a fresh dimension to the landscape.
One morning, I woke to find the jungle cloaked in thick fog, creating a magical atmosphere.
For an immersive exploration of Satpura’s wildlife, tribal heritage, safari experiences, and essential travel tips, visit my ultimate Satpura National Park travel guide. This comprehensive resource will help you unlock the very best of Madhya Pradesh’s hidden wild gem. |

Hidden Wildlife Gems of India: Untouched Havens Beyond the Usual Trails
India is home to a remarkable variety of wildlife habitats often ignored by mainstream travel circuits and seldom featured in the media. Adventuring beyond the usual parks brings surprises from unique destinations where local communities and nature are intertwined, resulting in stories worth sharing.
Bhetanai, Odisha: The Hidden Blackbuck Sanctuary
The blackbuck (Antilope cervicapra), an elegant antelope native to India, is distinguished by striking males with dark black and brown upper bodies and pure white bellies and legs. Blackbucks thrive where sweeping grasslands remain abundant and undisturbed.

While Tal Chhapar, near Churu in northwestern Rajasthan, draws crowds to its celebrated blackbuck herds, a village in Odisha offers a different spectacle. In Ganjam district, Bhetanai provides a larger grassland, hosting a blackbuck population twice the size. Herds sweep across this hidden Odisha land, which showcases a conservation success story without fences.
With a forest official from Bhanjanagar Eco Camp, I set out one morning about 20 KM north of Bhetanai. At half past seven, fog wrapped the grazing grounds, turning the landscape pale blue. Trees ebbed through the haze; the terrain belied its coastal proximity.

Deeper in the meadow, shadows materialised from the mist. Blackbucks crossed the open grassland, their dark shapes contrasting with the light. The herd grazed undisturbed. As the fog lifted, the animals slipped back into mist-shrouded woods. A male and a few females lingered, feeding. The herd embodied the grace of this rare species.

The forest official explained that villagers and nearby locals treat blackbucks as their heritage. This unique coexistence has flourished for decades, with community conservation committees protecting the species and its habitat.

The story echoes Jawai’s leopard tales, wildlife and people sharing land, traditions, and spirituality. However, rising tourist visits have led to litter issues on the grazing margins.
Forest officials and local stewards work to protect the area, but community-driven conservation needs sustained support. Declaring the habitat a plastic-free, no-litter zone could preserve its ecological integrity.

Bhetanai stands as a model of harmony between people and wildlife, an offbeat sanctuary deserving recognition, protection, and responsible tourism.
Panna National Park, Madhya Pradesh: From Ruin to Resilience
Panna National Park, devastated by poaching, lost all its tigers by 2009. After the translocation of a tiger pair from Pench and Bandhavgarh, combined with determined efforts by forest officials, Panna’s tiger numbers rose past 90 by 2024. It became a celebrated example of wildlife recovery in India.

Panna remains less visited than Bandhavgarh and Pench. Many tourists flock to parks with more predictable tiger sightings and established luxury lodges. Its distance from major cities and the prominence of nearby Khajuraho often relegate Panna to a secondary spot on travellers’ itineraries.
For those seeking stillness, the park offers a safari experience that trades the hustle of busier venues for the uninterrupted rhythm of the wild. During a June 2024 safari, I encountered fifteen tigers across six drives, each sighting intense but unhurried.

Framed by rocky plateaus, the blue Ken River, and the rugged Vindhya Range, Panna unfolds across ancient plateaus and rolling valleys.

The mountains stand as guardians of this diverse wilderness, their slopes cloaked in dry deciduous forests and tall grasses that offer vital shelter to the park’s abundant wildlife.

Millennia ago, volcanic eruptions marked the region, leaving black and maroon stones scattered throughout the forest. The region’s reputation also draws from its diamond mines. Occasional tales surface about wanderers finding diamonds underfoot and transforming their fortunes overnight. Even today, hopeful buyers arrive, seeking luck in Panna’s earth.

Beyond tigers, Panna’s forests pulse with life. Sloth bears root through undergrowth, Indian wolves roam; leopards and hyenas prowl. Grasses host chital, nilgai, wild boar, and chinkara.
Hornbills, bee-eaters, and kingfishers brighten the canopy. Gharials glide in the Ken, while teak, bamboo, khair, tendu, palash, and other trees create a rich diversity.

Guides and drivers shared concerns about growing tourist pressure and a proposed dam on the Ken River. The arrival of a Vande Bharat train, running six days a week from Delhi to nearby Khajuraho, represents a significant new challenge.

With a carrying capacity of over 2,000 passengers per trip, this potential increase in tourism could strain Panna’s fragile balance, threatening the sanctuary’s quiet refuge. For now, the park remains a haven where wildlife thrives in serene isolation.
Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh: The Wildlife Jewel of Central India and the Barasingha Revival
Barasingha, the Indian Swamp Deer, derives its name from the Hindi words “Bara” (12) and “Singha” (horns), a reference to its distinctive antlers that typically display twelve points. Similar to the tiger, the Barasingha faced near extinction in the late 1970s.
To revive this iconic species, forest officials relocated villages from within Kanha’s jungles. They sculpted the reclaimed land into expansive grasslands and engineered both natural and man-made wetlands. Today, thousands of Barasingha graze and bound across Kanha’s verdant grasslands.

Kanha has also witnessed a healthy increase in its tiger population. With its vast area, thriving grasslands, and abundant water bodies, the park is now home to over 135 tigers.

The Sal forests of Kanha orchestrate a rapid, living cycle. For a fortnight, the leaves surrender to the earth; for the next, the canopy erupts with new growth. We witnessed this renewal in the punishing heat of May 2024, an astonishing feat of resilience.

Kanha’s landscapes fueled Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book, drawing inspiration from nearby Pench National Park as well.
Today, scenes like tigers lounging in cool forest pools keep that legacy alive for explorers. These wild tigers carry the untamed spirit and rich storybook character at the heart of Kipling’s universe.

Beneath Kanha’s towering Sal forest, the crested serpent eagle hunts near forest streams, using its sharp vision and calm patience to scan the ground. This powerful raptor blends perfectly into the forest’s natural rhythm, a silent guardian above the layered greenery.

The rare Malabar Whistling Thrush, also known as the whistling schoolboy, is a special resident here. With its striking black and blue feathers and uniquely human-like whistling calls, this bird thrives in the shaded mid-canopies of Kanha, fascinating birdwatchers with its melodious songs and playful nature.

In the sunlit gaps, the green bee-eater darts swiftly among branches, feasting on insects supported by the forest’s quick leaf cycles. The Sal’s fast turnover of leaves creates a lively, ever-changing habitat that fuels diverse bird life, from raptors to songbirds, making Kanha’s forest a thriving avian community.

This balance of myth and reality makes Kanha an essential stop for any traveller seeking the true heart of India's jungles, a land of ancient tales and living ecology.
Wings Over Water: India’s Wetland Wonders
India’s landscape is not only defined by its famous forests and national parks. The country also harbours spectacular wetlands, many recognised as Ramsar sites for their international ecological importance.
Every year, from late autumn through early spring, these vibrant habitats come alive as migratory birds traverse thousands of miles to escape the harsh winters of Europe and the polar regions. Indian wetlands offer refuge and abundant food, transforming them into a seasonal paradise for visiting flocks.

During the 2024–2025 birding season, my journeys in November and February revealed the breathtaking sights and sounds of two celebrated wetlands renowned for their avian diversity.
Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary, Rajasthan: Heart of India’s Migratory Haven
Bharatpur is a quiet town in Rajasthan near the Uttar Pradesh border, 50 KM from Agra and situated on the famous Golden Triangle route of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur.
Bharatpur's Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary is both a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, designated in 1981, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.

Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary draws over 370 bird species during the migration months from November to February. The Maharaja of Bharatpur transformed this wetland by diverting water from the Chambal River and flooding the area to create a thriving bird habitat.

During my late November 2024 stay in Bharatpur, the bird numbers appeared lower than usual for this time. The homestay owner explained that excessive rains had delayed the drop in water levels, thus reducing bird concentrations.
Usually, hundreds of birds are spotted near homes, and thousands gather in the sanctuary. Birding peaks from mid-December to January, with a greater chance of spotting a rich variety. Despite these conditions, my eyes and the camera lens gifted me many rewarding avian sightings.

During the winter months, the park becomes a crucial refuge for migratory waterfowl travelling along the Central Asian flyway. These birds find ideal feeding, nesting, and resting habitats here among the patchwork of shallow lakes, reed beds, and island groves.
The rich mosaic of wetland habitats and abundant food supply creates one of the most spectacular heronries and bird congregations in the region.
These wetland treasures not only offer thrilling sightings for birders but also play a vital role in maintaining the ecological balance and supporting the lives of many interconnected species.

Spanning 11 KM from the entrance, Keoladeo can be explored on foot, by bicycle, or on an e-rickshaw. Walking is free and offers the most immersive experience. Bicycles can be rented for INR 100 (standard) or INR 150 (ranger) for a full day. E-rickshaws, similar to compact golf carts, cost INR 800 for two hours, with additional hours at INR 300.
The joy of birding here comes from slow, focused observation in a tranquil setting, distinct from the rush of forest safaris. Walking the sanctuary’s peaceful paths creates an unhurried pace and a deep connection to nature, ideal for appreciating India’s avian wonders.

Mangalajodi Wetlands, Odisha: From Poaching Past to Conservation Future
Chilika Lake is Asia’s largest brackish water lagoon, formed by the mixing of the salty Bay of Bengal and freshwater from the Mahanadi River. This vast lagoon spans the Puri, Ganjam, and Khordha districts of Odisha.
When I travelled by train between Hyderabad and Kolkata during my high school days, the journey took over an hour and a half to cross around the lake’s perimeter.

Each winter, this shimmering water world transforms into one of nature’s great migratory spectacles. Flocks of flamingos, pelicans, storks, ducks, and waders descend from as far as Siberia, Central Asia, and beyond the Himalayas.
In recent years, more than a million birds of nearly 190 species filled the wetlands, turning Chilika into the subcontinent’s grandest avian gathering.

The lake’s shallow waters and maze of grassy islets nurture not just birds but also rare Irrawaddy dolphins, fish, and a rich mosaic of wetland creatures. Chilika’s ecosystem forms a vital, beating heart in India’s vast network of coastal wetlands, supporting both biodiversity and the livelihoods of communities along its shores.

Mangalajodi, once infamous for bird poaching, now stands as a global model for community-driven conservation. The boat guide, steering through narrow reed channels, recounted how, fifty years ago, he had hunted birds himself.

Today, villagers who once set traps now patrol the marshes to protect birdlife, lead guided boat rides, and host travellers in homestays. Their transformation safeguards the birds while ensuring that eco-tourism supports each family in sustainable ways.
As of February 2025, boating in these narrow, traditional rowboats costs INR 1200 for a three-hour excursion. Sitting at the pointed front, the ride feels immersive, close to the water, with sights and sounds softened by the boat’s blur and a low perspective.

The blurred, painted prow in the photograph above captures this unique vantage: explorers, guides, and nature entwined within the lake’s living tapestry.

Chilika remains a constantly changing wetland, shaped by sea tides, monsoon rains, sediment, and the stewardship of its people, a true sanctuary where India’s wild migration drama unfolds each winter.
Reflections on My Wildlife Journey
Over the past three years, my time immersed in India’s wild places has shaped my passion for wildlife photography. This reflection shares key lessons from my evolving exploration.
Timing Shapes Your Experience
Timing controls your wildlife encounters. Summer reveals large mammals, while post-monsoon cloaks the forest in fresh green from October to November.
Birds appear in peak numbers from mid-December to January. Animal behaviour shifts with seasons: summer mornings and winter evenings bring mammal sightings, while birds remain active at dawn and dusk year-round.

Early safaris invite fresh air and fewer tourists. Starting with lenses like 24-120 and 70-200 taught me more about animal behaviour and habitat than gear. Patience and openness unlock the jungle’s hidden stories beyond simple sightings.
Honour the Wild
Guides complain about loud tourists chasing reels and careless litterers. Imagine such disrespect in your home. Parks like Gir and Pench ban plastic; visitors must carry out all waste.
Photographers should silence their cameras. Modern bodies offer shutterless modes; choose them to respect animals and fellow visitors and maintain the forest’s peace.
Plan with Purpose
Popular Indian parks fill up well in advance. Madhya Pradesh parks allow bookings up to 120 days ahead, while Gir National Park permits bookings up to 90 days before visits.
Choosing accommodation near park entrances improves access to early safaris, crucial for capturing wildlife activity.
Wildlife Travel’s Lessons
Witnessing nature's fierce survival and tireless conservation fuels my gratitude for life’s comforts. My blogs celebrate jungles, their inhabitants, and the human dedication to keeping ecosystems alive despite challenges.

Discover these stories through the evolving eyes of a wildlife photographer on travelertalez.
🌿 Behind this story: This post shares moments and frames from three years of journeys across India’s wild spaces. For practical details such as permits, routes, and the real struggles behind each image, you will find linked guides within the text. Wildlife numbers are drawn from official counts and recent reports. Think of this as a gateway story, with the guides offering the depth when you are ready to plan your own adventure. |
Have you been to India's great tiger reserves or secret sanctuaries? Share your favourite wildlife encounter in the comments below!
![]() | Subhashish Chatterjee: Solo Traveller, Landscape Photographer Subhashish Chatterjee is the founder and writer of travelertalez.com. He journeyed across 25 Indian states and 6 Union Territories. Since 2016, Subhashish has embarked on solo journeys, capturing the soul of each destination. A professional landscape photographer, he wields Nikon Z8, Z7, and Z30 cameras. He crafts stunning visual narratives. His vast travel and photographic skills establish authority. He ensures reliable, insightful content, born from genuine passion. |